Morning
Land at Seville SVQ
Seville Airport sits about 10 km east of the centre; the EA airport bus and taxis both run straight into town.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Hotel Casa 1800 Sevilla
C/ Rodrigo Caro 6, inside Santa Cruz and 130 m from the Cathedral. The rooftop pool faces the Giralda.
Lose the map in Barrio de Santa Cruz
The old Jewish quarter begins at the hotel door. Aim for Plaza de Dona Elvira and follow the Callejon del Agua back to the Alcazar wall.
Riverfront walk to the Torre del Oro
Paseo de Cristobal Colon. The thirteenth-century watchtower marks where the Indies fleets unloaded; keep going for the Triana bridge view.
Evening
Tapas at El Rinconcillo
Calle Gerona 40. Trading since 1670 and still the oldest bar in Seville; the tab goes on the counter in chalk. Espinacas con garbanzos.
The Giralda after dark
Plaza Virgen de los Reyes. Ten minutes back toward the hotel, floodlit and almost empty once the tour groups have gone.
Morning
Real Alcazar of Seville
Patio de Banderas. Book the first slot: April to September it runs 09:30-19:00 and the Mudejar Palace of Pedro I fills fast. Allow 2.5 hours.
Cathedral and the Giralda
Avenida de la Constitucion. Cultural visits run 09:30-17:00 except during services. The Giralda is climbed by ramp, not stairs.
Afternoon / Day
Lunch in the Mercado de Triana
Calle San Jorge 6, over the Isabel II bridge. Fish counters and tapas bars share the hall, built on the ruins of the Castillo de San Jorge.
Calle Betis and the Triana bank
The tiled riverfront terrace opposite the old city. Best late afternoon, when the light hits the Torre del Oro across the water.
Evening
Flamenco at Casa de la Memoria
Calle Cuna 6. A small patio venue run as a cultural centre rather than a dinner show; seats are limited, so book the day before.
Dinner at Espacio Eslava
C/ Eslava 3 in San Lorenzo, ten minutes north of the show. Thirty years of Sevillano cooking; reserve online, the bar fills by nine.
Morning
Breakfast at Confiteria La Campana
Calle Sierpes 1-3. A Seville pastry counter since 1885 at the top of the shopping street; coffee standing up, like everyone else.
Casa de Pilatos
Plaza de Pilatos 1, open daily 09:00-18:00. Gothic-Mudejar meets Renaissance; the main floor is EUR 12 and the upper floor EUR 6 more.
Afternoon / Day
Lunch at Taberna Coloniales
Plaza Cristo de Burgos, two minutes from Casa de Pilatos. Expect to queue at the door whatever the hour; solomillo al whisky is the order.
Plaza de Espana and Maria Luisa
Av. Isabel la Catolica. The 1929 exposition plaza with its tiled province alcoves, then the shaded park paths behind it.
Evening
Setas de Sevilla walkway
Plaza de la Encarnacion. The rooftop loop over the timber parasols, from EUR 16; the Aurora light show runs 21:30-01:00, April to October.
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Morning
AVE train to Cordoba
Sevilla Santa Justa to Cordoba Central on the AVE, roughly 45 minutes. Take an early departure so the Mezquita is done before the heat.
Check in: Balcon de Cordoba
Calle Encarnacion 8, a ten-room house built around three patios a block from the Mezquita. The rooftop looks down on its tiled roofs.
Mezquita-Catedral de Cordoba
Calle Cardenal Herrero 1. Book the timed entry: a forest of striped horseshoe arches with a Renaissance cathedral dropped into the middle.
Afternoon / Day
Lunch at Taberna Salinas
Calle Tundidores 3, a tavern since 1879. Saturday is lunch only, 12:30-16:00, and it shuts Sundays. Salmorejo, then berenjenas with miel.
Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos
Campo Santo de los Martires. Roman mosaics indoors, water gardens on three terraces outside. Closed Mondays, and Saturday hours are shorter than the rest of the week.
Evening
Juderia and the Calleja de las Flores
The whitewashed lanes north of the Mezquita. The flower alley frames the bell tower at its dead end; go after the coach parties leave.
Dinner at Bodegas Campos
C/ Lineros 32. A working bodega since 1908, a warren of patios and dining rooms, with a visitors' book signed by half of Spain. Reserve.
Morning
Shuttle bus to Medina Azahara
Departs Glorieta Cruz Roja, in front of the Mercado Victoria, at 10:00 or 10:45. EUR 10 return, about 25 minutes each way, back by 13:30 or 14:15.
Medina Azahara
Ctra. de Palma del Rio km 5.5. Abd al-Rahman III's tenth-century palace city, UNESCO-listed in 2018. Closed Mondays; the museum sits below the ruins.
Afternoon / Day
Late lunch at Mercado Victoria
Paseo de la Victoria, where the shuttle drops you. A glass-and-iron market hall of food stalls — easy after a morning in the sun.
Puente Romano and the Calahorra
Walk the Roman bridge to the Torre de la Calahorra on the far bank; the best single view back at the Mezquita is from halfway across.
Evening
Rooftop sunset over the Mezquita
Back at the Balcon de Cordoba. The terrace sits level with the minaret-turned-belfry — the reason to have booked this hotel.
Dinner on the hotel terrace
Cordoba largely shuts on Sunday night, so eat where you are staying; the house has only ten rooms, so ask the desk to hold you a table.
Morning
Plaza del Potro
The inn courtyard Cervantes put in Don Quixote, off the Ribera. A quiet last hour in Cordoba before the station — most museums shut Mondays.
Avant high-speed rail to Granada
Cordoba to Granada by Avant or AVE, about an hour and a half through olive country with a reversal at Antequera-Santa Ana.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Hotel Casa 1800 Granada
C/ Benalua 11, at the foot of the Albaicin and a few minutes from Plaza Nueva. Several rooms look straight across at the Alhambra.
Tapas at Los Diamantes, Plaza Nueva
Pl. Nueva 13. Granada still sends out a free tapa with every drink, and here it arrives fried — boquerones, cazon, calamares. No bookings.
Carrera del Darro
The river lane under the Alhambra hill, past the eleventh-century Banuelo baths, ending at the Paseo de los Tristes. Twenty minutes, uphill.
Evening
Sunset at the Mirador de San Nicolas
Plaza de San Nicolas, high in the Albaicin. The classic view of the Alhambra with the Sierra Nevada behind it; get there 40 minutes early.
Zambra at Cuevas Los Tarantos
Camino del Sacromonte 9. A cave venue since 1972; the zambra runs about an hour with ten to twelve artists. Open daily from 18:00.
Check tomorrow's Alhambra tickets
Alhambra tickets are issued in each visitor's name and ID is checked at the gate. Match names to passports and note the Nasrid Palaces slot.
Morning
Up to the Alhambra
The C30 minibus climbs from Plaza Isabel la Catolica, or walk the Cuesta de Gomerez through the woods in about 25 minutes.
Generalife gardens
Start at the far end of the hill while it is cool: the summer palace, the Patio de la Acequia and the water stair. Roughly an hour.
Alcazaba and the Torre de la Vela
The oldest part of the fortress. Climb the watchtower for the full sweep of the Albaicin, the vega and the Sierra Nevada.
Afternoon / Day
Nasrid Palaces
Calle Real de la Alhambra. The palaces are entered only at the time printed on your ticket, and missing it forfeits the visit — be at the door early.
Palacio de Carlos V
The circular Renaissance courtyard dropped in by Charles V, and the Museo de la Alhambra underneath it holding the Nasrid ceramics.
Late lunch on Calle Navas
Los Diamantes at Calle Navas 28, the 1942 original. The whole street is tapas bars — walk down it and pick by how full each one is.
Evening
Dinner at Carmen Mirador de Aixa
Carril de San Agustin 2, up in the Albaicin. Dinner only, 19:30-23:00, closed Mondays. Book a terrace table facing the floodlit palaces.
Catholic Granada & Onward
Morning
Capilla Real de Granada
Calle Oficios. Ferdinand and Isabella lie in the crypt below the marble tombs; the sacristy holds her missal and the Flemish panels.
Granada Cathedral
Plaza de las Pasiegas, next door to the chapel. Twenty-two stained-glass windows ring the Renaissance main chapel; half an hour is enough.
Alcaiceria lanes
The rebuilt silk-market alleys behind the cathedral. Taracea marquetry boxes and Moroccan lamps; haggle, and check the inlay is wood not print.
Afternoon / Day
Last lunch at Los Manueles
A Granada institution since 1917 with the kitchen running straight through from noon to midnight — useful when a train dictates the hour.
Evening
AVE from Granada
Granada station runs direct high-speed rail to Madrid Atocha for onward flights; Malaga is the alternative if you are heading for the coast.
