Morning
Land at Prague PRG
Václav Havel Airport, Ruzyně. No rail link — take the Airport Express bus to the main station or a ~35-min taxi to the Old Town.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Hotel Josef
Rybná 20, on a quiet Old Town lane. Eva Jiricna's glass spiral staircase in the lobby; the ground-floor bakery does breakfast.
Lunch at Lokál Dlouhááá
Dlouhá 33, two minutes from the hotel. Unpasteurised Pilsner from twelve tanks and beef tartare; it seats 1,300 a day, so walk in.
Old Town Square and the clock
Staroměstské náměstí 1. The apostles parade on the hour — stand under the arcade on the far side to see the figures, not the crowd.
Evening
Charles Bridge at dusk
Karlův most. Cross from the Old Town tower after the day tours thin out; the Malá Strana end is the quieter photograph.
Dinner at Kantýna
Politických vězňů 5. Butcher counter at the front, canteen tables behind — pick your cut by weight. Open to 23:00, and to 22:00 on Sundays.
Morning
Tram 22 up to Pohořelec
Board at Národní divadlo and ride to Pohořelec — the tram climbs the hill so you can walk the castle downhill all day.
Strahov Library
Strahovské nádvoří 132/1. The Theological and Philosophical halls plus the gallery, open 09:00–17:00; book the timed slot online.
St Vitus Cathedral
III. nádvoří, inside Prague Castle. Buy the circuit ticket before you enter; the Mucha window is in the third chapel on the left.
Afternoon / Day
Lunch at Kuchyň
Hradčanské náměstí 1, in the Salmovský Palace. Czech home cooking from Ambiente; you pick from the pots in the kitchen.
Golden Lane
Zlatá ulička, on the castle circuit ticket. Kafka wrote at number 22; the upstairs armoury walkway is the part people miss.
Evening
Down Nerudova into Malá Strana
Walk the cobbled descent from the castle gates; the house signs above the doors predate street numbers.
Dinner at Café Savoy
Vítězná 5, at the foot of the hill. A café by day and a proper restaurant at night under a restored 1893 neo-renaissance ceiling.
Morning
Jewish Museum circuit
Reservation centre at Maiselova 15. One ticket covers the ghetto synagogues, the Robert Guttmann Gallery and the Old Jewish Cemetery. Closed Saturdays.
Spanish Synagogue
Vězeňská 1. Moorish Revival gilding over every surface — the most spectacular room on the circuit, so leave time for it.
Old Jewish Cemetery
Entrance beside the Pinkas Synagogue on U Starého hřbitova. Twelve thousand stones stacked over centuries because the ground ran out.
Afternoon / Day
Metro B to Karlín
Náměstí Republiky to Křižíkova, two stops. Karlín was flooded out in 2002 and rebuilt as the city's food quarter.
Lunch at Eska Karlín
Pernerova 49, in a converted textile works. Bakery and brunch downstairs; the sourdough "bread 33" is baked on beech wood. Closes 18:00.
Municipal House
Náměstí Republiky 5. Prague's Art Nouveau showpiece — take the guided tour of the interiors, or just have coffee in the café.
Evening
Dinner at Field
U Milosrdných 12. Radek Kašpárek's one-star tasting menu; book weeks ahead and note they hold the table only 15 minutes.
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Morning
Train to Kutná Hora
Praha hlavní nádraží to Kutná Hora hl.n., roughly hourly, about 55 minutes. A local shuttle runs on to Kutná Hora-Sedlec.
Sedlec Ossuary
Zámecká 279. Forty thousand skeletons arranged into a chandelier and a coat of arms. Capacity is capped — buy the timed ticket online.
Afternoon / Day
St Barbara's Cathedral
Barborská 685. Built on silver money, with frescoes of the miners who paid for it; the roof-gallery tour takes only fifteen people.
Barborská terrace walk
The balustrade of saints along Barborská, running from the cathedral back to the Jesuit College above the Vrchlice valley.
Lunch at Dačický
Rakova 8. Wild boar goulash with gingerbread dumplings and six taps including the revived Kutná Hora town brewery. Open from 11:00.
Evening
Train back to Prague
Kutná Hora hl.n. to Praha hlavní nádraží. Sit on the left for the Elbe plain at golden hour.
Sunset over Letná Gardens
Letenské sady, above the river bend. The best free view of all the bridges at once; there are kiosks along the terrace.
Dinner at Café Imperial
Na Poříčí 15. A 1914 hall tiled floor to ceiling in ceramic mosaic; Kafka drank here. Open daily to 23:00 — reserve well ahead.
Morning
Breakfast at Josef Bakery
Rybná 20. Croissants baked downstairs each morning; grab a second one for the train before you check out.
Railjet train to Vienna
Praha hlavní nádraží to Wien Hauptbahnhof, about 4 hours direct. ÖBB/ČD Railjet runs through the day, with RegioJet a cheaper alternative on the same route.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Hotel Altstadt Vienna
Kirchengasse 41, in Spittelberg. Sixty-two rooms each designed by a different architect, with a Warhol in the salon.
Sisi Museum and Imperial Apartments
Hofburg, Michaelerkuppel. Daily 09:00–17:30 with last entry at 16:30 — book on imperialtickets.com, it sells out.
St Stephen's Cathedral
Stephansplatz 3. Sightseeing runs 09:00–11:30 and 13:00–16:30; the south tower is 343 steps, the north one has a lift to the Pummerin.
Evening
Graben and Kohlmarkt
The old moat, now the grand shopping axis. Walk it to the Michaelerplatz gate for the Hofburg facade lit up.
Dinner at Figlmüller Wollzeile
Wollzeile 5, down a passage off the street. Serving schnitzel since 1905, pounded wider than the plate. Daily to 22:30 — reserve.
Morning
Breakfast at Café Sperl
Gumpendorfer Straße 11. An 1880 coffeehouse with its original booths and three billiard tables. Opens 07:00 Mon–Sat; order the Sperl Torte.
Naschmarkt
Wienzeile, five minutes downhill from Sperl. About 130 stalls, Mon–Sat 06:00–21:00 and shut on Sunday. Saturdays add a flea market.
Afternoon / Day
Karlskirche
Karlsplatz 1, at the east end of the Naschmarkt. Two Trajan-style columns and an oval dome, reflected in the pool out front.
Late lunch at Griechenbeisl
Fleischmarkt 11. Vienna's oldest inn — Mozart, Beethoven and Mark Twain all ate here. Check its hours when you book; they have changed recently.
Ring tram loop
Take tram 1 then 2 from Schwedenplatz to circle the Ringstrasse past the Opera, Rathaus and Burgtheater for the price of a ticket.
Evening
Kunsthistorisches Museum, late
Maria-Theresien-Platz. Open to 21:00 on Thursdays — the one evening you get Bruegel and the Kunstkammer without a queue.
Late dinner at Figlmüller Bäckerstraße
Bäckerstraße 6, the larger second room. Kitchen runs to 22:00, which makes it the workable option after a 21:00 museum close.
Morning
Schönbrunn Palace
Schönbrunner Schloßstraße 47, U4 to Schönbrunn. Palace open daily 08:30–18:00; buy the timed ticket on imperialtickets.com in advance.
Gloriette and the palace park
The park is free and opens 06:30. Climb to the 1775 colonnade for the view back down the parterre to the palace.
Afternoon / Day
Lunch at Café Gloriette
Inside the Gloriette itself, open daily 09:00 until sunset. Coffee and cake with the whole park below you.
Upper Belvedere
Prinz-Eugen-Straße 27, open daily 09:00–19:00. Klimt's The Kiss hangs here — go straight up to the first floor before the tour groups.
Walk down to Lower Belvedere
Rennweg 6. The baroque garden between the two palaces is free; the Lower Belvedere shows temporary exhibitions, 10:00–18:00.
Evening
Out to Heiligenstadt
U4 to Heiligenstadt, then bus 38A up to Pfarrplatz. Twenty-five minutes from the centre to the vineyards.
Heuriger at Mayer am Pfarrplatz
Pfarrplatz 2, a wine tavern since 1683. Beethoven lodged upstairs in 1817. Hot and cold buffet, own wines, live music from 19:00.
Morning
Railjet train to Budapest
Wien Hauptbahnhof to Budapest-Keleti, about 2h40 direct, with departures through the day. Confirm the Budapest arrival station when you book.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Hotel Rum Budapest
Királyi Pál utca 4, District V. Forty rooms with a seventh-floor sky bar; breakfast is à la carte on the roof.
Late lunch at Kőleves Vendéglő
Kazinczy utca 37-41, in the old Jewish quarter. Open since 2005, kitchen straight through from noon — and there is a garden. Closed Mondays.
St Stephen's Basilica
Szent István tér 1. The largest church in Budapest; the panorama terrace is a separate ticket, lift most of the way then one flight of stairs.
Andrássy út to the Opera
Walk the UNESCO-listed boulevard from Deák tér; the 1884 Opera House at number 22 reopened in 2022 after a six-year restoration.
Evening
Dinner at Gettó Gulyás
Wesselényi utca 18. Grandmother cooking done properly — venison stew with juniper, and túrógombóc after. Daily 12:00–23:00; book.
Szimpla Kert
Kazinczy utca 14. The derelict courtyard that started the ruin-bar genre. Go before 22:00 if you want to actually see the place.
Morning
Hungarian Parliament tour
Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3. Entry is by timed guided tour only, booked online — the Holy Crown and the grand staircase are the payoff.
Shoes on the Danube Bank
Id. Antall József rakpart, five minutes south of Parliament. Sixty pairs of iron shoes for the people shot into the river in 1944-45.
Afternoon / Day
Tram 2 and the castle funicular
Ride tram 2 down the Pest embankment, cross the Chain Bridge, then the Budavári Sikló up from Clark Ádám tér — it shuts for maintenance on Mondays in odd-numbered weeks.
Fisherman's Bastion
Szentháromság tér. Seven turrets for the seven founding tribes. Upper terraces are ticketed 09:00–19:00 until 31 May, card payment only.
Matthias Church
Szentháromság tér 2, open 09:00–17:00. Zsolnay tiles on the roof and a free audioguide — the first three chapters cost nothing.
Lunch at Pest-Buda
Fortuna utca 3, inside the castle walls. An inn on this site since 1696; goulash and roast duck. Open daily from 07:30.
Evening
Széchenyi Thermal Bath
Állatkerti körút 9-11, in City Park. Book a cabin online rather than a locker; the three outdoor pools with the chess players are the point.
Dinner at Két Szerecsen
Nagymező utca 14, four stops back down the M1 from the baths. Paris-style bistro plates, open to 23:30 every night.
Gellért Hill and the Market
Morning
Up Gellért Hill
Climb the switchbacks from Szent Gellért tér for the panorama over the whole river bend — about 25 minutes, and free.
Cross the Liberty Bridge
Szabadság híd, the green art-nouveau one. Walk it back to Pest; it lands at the door of the Great Market Hall.
Afternoon / Day
Great Market Hall
Vámház körút 1-3. Mon–Fri 06:00–18:00, Saturday to 16:00. Paprika and Tokaji on the ground floor, pickles in the basement.
Lángos on the market gallery
Upstairs at the Great Market Hall, where the food counters are. Fried dough with sour cream and cheese — the correct last meal.
100E Airport Express
Direct bus to Ferenc Liszt Airport from Kálvin tér, two stops from the market. Needs its own ticket, not a normal transit pass.
Evening
Fly home from BUD
Ferenc Liszt International. Terminal 2 only; allow the usual two hours, and spend the last forints before security.
