Morning
Land at Split (SPU)
Split's airport is a short transfer west of the city; the airport bus and taxis both run down to the Riva and the ferry terminal.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Hotel Park Split
Hatzeov perivoj 3, right above Bačvice beach. Trading since 1921, with a fitness and wellness centre.
Lunch at Brasserie on 7
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, on the Riva. Mediterranean plates, local seafood and handmade pasta; brunch runs late.
Diocletian's Palace substructures
Go in from the Brass Gate on the Riva. The cellars mirror the lost imperial apartments overhead and carried the 1979 UNESCO listing.
Peristyle and the Vestibule
The ceremonial court under red granite columns, then the circular Vestibule behind it, once domed and lined with mosaic.
Evening
Dinner at ZOI
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 23, on the palace wall above the Riva beside the South Gate. Mediterranean tasting menus; book.
The Riva after dark
Split's waterfront runs the whole south wall of the palace. Nursing one coffee on a terrace is the local evening, not a tourist one.
Morning
Cathedral of St Domnius
On the Peristyle. Diocletian's octagonal mausoleum became the cathedral; the 57 m bell tower is a separate, much steeper climb.
Golden Gate
The north gate of the palace, once carrying sculptures of the four tetrarchs. Walk out through it into the market lanes.
Uje olive oil shop
Croatia's first oil shop: extra-virgin oils, truffle products, vinegars and spices. The souvenir that survives three ferries.
Afternoon / Day
Meštrović Gallery
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, the sculptor's own villa. Tue–Sun 08:00–18:00, last entry 17:30; closed Mondays and holidays.
Marjan: the Sedlo watchtower
Start at the visitor centre, Trumbićeva obala 18. The 148 m tower has a lift, holds ten people, and opens 08:00–20:00 through September.
Evening
Swim at Bačvice
The shallow sand bay below the hotel, where Split plays picigin. September water is warmer than the June water.
Dinner at Hotel Park
Hatzeov perivoj 3. The hotel has run a kitchen since it opened in 1921, and it is a two-minute walk back up from the beach.
Morning
Jadrolinija catamaran to Hvar
Line 641, the direct fast ship from Split ferry terminal to Hvar town. Foot passengers only — leave the car behind for the week.
Check in: Hotel Adriana
Obala Fabrika 28, across the harbour from the square. Rooftop pool and bar, a 1,600 m2 spa, marina and old-town views.
Afternoon / Day
Lunch at Dalmatino
Sveti Marak 1, in the lanes off the square. Steak and fish house, Mon–Sat noon to midnight, closed Sundays. Reserve.
St Stephen's Square and the Treasury
Trg sv. Stjepana runs from the harbour up to the cathedral. The treasury in the Bishop's Palace holds Gothic to Baroque silver and vestments.
Arsenal gallery and Hvar Theatre
On the same square. The gallery opened inside the Arsenal in 1957 and hangs the island's best paintings and sculpture.
Evening
Climb to the Fortica
The main staircase from the square climbs through the Groda lanes to the medieval fortress. Start an hour before sunset.
Dinner at Konoba Menego
On that same Groda staircase below the fortress. Hvar and Dalmatian produce, staff in island costume; open 1 April to 1 November.
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Morning
Breakfast at the Adriana
Take it on the terrace over the marina; the island buses leave from the far side of the harbour.
Across the island to Stari Grad
Bus or hire car over the ridge, roughly 20 minutes, then down into the oldest town on the island.
Stari Grad Plain (UNESCO)
The Greek field grid laid out from ancient Pharos and still farmed on the same stone lines. Walk or cycle one of the lanes across it.
Stari Grad old town
Tourist office at Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1. Stone lanes, the Dominican monastery, and a harbour with no cruise traffic.
Afternoon / Day
Tasting at Vina Tomić, Jelsa
Jelsa 874a. Plavac Mali, Pošip and Bogdanuša in the Mina cove cellar, or the Roman banquet in togas. Mon–Sat, booking required.
Evening
Back to Hvar town
About 40 minutes from Jelsa by bus or car. Buses stop early on this island, so check the last one before the second glass.
Dinner at Val Marina
Obala Fabrika 28, the Adriana's fine-dining room on the marina. Easy after a wine afternoon — you are already home.
Morning
Krilo catamaran to Korčula
Kapetan Luka's fast catamaran runs down the coast from Split through Hvar to Korčula and on to Dubrovnik. Seasonal, and seats sell out — book ahead.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Hotel Korsal
Šetalište Frana Kršinića 80, on the beach in the pedestrian zone just east of the walls. Sea-view restaurant and a wine cellar.
Lunch at Filippi
Šetalište Petra Kanavelića, on the sea walk around the old town, tables a few steps from the water. Recognised by the Michelin guide; book a waterfront table.
St Mark's Cathedral
Trg sv. Marka. Bonino da Milano cut the portal, Marko Andrijić built the top of the bell tower, Tintoretto painted the altarpieces.
The walls and towers
Walk the ring of stone towers around the old town. Every lane inside branches off one spine, so you cannot really get lost.
Evening
Moreška sword dance
Korčula's own sword dance, staged through a season that runs late April to mid-October. The tourist board posts the performance nights.
Dinner at the Korsal
Šetalište Frana Kršinića 80. Sea-view terrace and the hotel's own cellar, a ten-minute walk back from the old town gate.
Morning
Breakfast at the Korsal
On the terrace over the beach. Nothing today needs an early start except the winery you booked.
Out to Lumbarda
Six kilometres east along the cape by local bus, taxi or bike. The sand under these vineyards is the whole point.
Bire winery, Lumbarda
Grk, the white grape of these sand plots, poured at the family cellar in Lumbarda. Ring ahead — visits are by arrangement.
Afternoon / Day
Swim off Lumbarda
Sandy coves on the south side of the cape, ten minutes down from the vineyards. Bring lunch — the walk back up is hot.
Back over the cape
Twenty minutes to Korčula town, enough for a shower before the drive inland.
Evening
Up to Pupnat
Fifteen minutes into the hill villages behind the coast road. Taxi both ways if the wine list is going to happen.
Dinner at Konoba Mate
Pupnat 28. Pašticada, grilled lamb, homemade pasta and goat cheese. May–October, Mon–Sat 17:00–23:00, booking required.
Morning
Krilo catamaran to Dubrovnik
The same Kapetan Luka line carries on from Korčula down to Dubrovnik. Check the day's sailing times when you book — there are not many of them.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: The Pucić Palace
Od Puča 1, a baroque palace in the very heart of the walled old town. From here everything inside the walls is on foot.
Lunch at Gradska Kavana Arsenal
Pred Dvorom 1. The terrace looks over the old city port to St John's Fortress; open every day 08:00–23:00, so no reservation panic.
Stradun and Onofrio's Fountain
The sixteen-sided fountain sits just inside the Pile gate at the head of the marble Placa; Sponza Palace closes the far end.
Evening
Lovrijenac at dusk
The free-standing fortress on a 37-metre sea rock west of the Pile gate. Worth the walk for the light even if you skip the climb.
Dinner at Restaurant 360
Sv. Dominika bb, built into the ramparts above the old port. One Michelin star, Tue–Sun from 18:00, closed Mondays. Book, and dress up.
Walls, Srđ and Out
Morning
Walk the City Walls
The full circuit of the old town, one-way and almost entirely unshaded. Go at opening; the ticket is run by the Society of Friends of Dubrovnik Antiquities.
Franciscan Monastery cloister
On the Placa by the Pile gate. The Romanesque-Gothic cloister is the finest in the city, and the monastery museum opens off it.
Afternoon / Day
Lunch at Pantarul
Kralja Tomislava 1, out in Lapad. Homemade pasta and bread, produce from Župa and Konavle; daily 12:00–23:00, book online.
Rector's Palace
Pred Dvorom 3. The Cultural History Museum occupies the government seat of the old Republic room by room, from the council halls down to the prison cells.
Cable car to Srđ
Up the hill behind the walls for the whole coastline and Lokrum. Through 14 September it runs 09:00 to midnight, then to 23:00.
Evening
Dinner at Nautika
Brsalje 3, in the 1881 maritime school at Pile, facing Lovrijenac and Bokar. Opens 18:00 daily — take the first seating.
Fly out of Dubrovnik (DBV)
Ruđer Bošković Airport. Allow a full hour to get out of the old town and down the coast road on a September evening.
