Morning
Land at Bergen Flesland (BGO)
The Bybanen light rail leaves from outside the terminal and runs straight into the city centre. Buy the ticket on the platform, not on board.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Clarion Hotel Admiral
C. Sundts gate 9, on the harbour. A 1904 brick warehouse; the water-side rooms look straight across at Bryggen and up at Floyen.
Lunch at Fisketorget
Torget, at the head of the inner harbour. The covered Mathallen beside the open stalls trades year-round: fish soup, shrimp, cured salmon.
Walk Bryggen
The UNESCO-listed Hanseatic wharf. Go behind the gabled fronts into the wooden passages, where every floor and doorframe leans a different way.
Bryggens Museum
Dreggsallmenningen 3. Built directly over the excavated 12th-century wharf foundations, which were left in place under the floor.
Evening
Floibanen up to Floyen
Vetrlidsallmenningen 23A. Six minutes from the harbour to the top station. The funicular runs to midnight, and in June it is still light when it does.
Dinner at Bryggeloftet & Stuene
Bryggen 11. Trading since 1910. Fish soup is the house dish; the reindeer fillet with lingonberry is the full Bergen version of dinner.
Morning
Ulriken643 cable car
Haukelandsbakken 40. The car climbs to 643 m, the highest of the seven mountains. April to September it runs daily, 09:00 to 23:00.
Coffee at Skyskraperen
The summit restaurant at the top station. Take a terrace table; the Vidden trail to Floyen sets off from just behind it across open plateau.
Afternoon / Day
Bybanen light rail south
Line 1 runs south from the centre. Fantoft and Hop are both on it, roughly twenty minutes out, and only a couple of stops apart.
Fantoft Stave Church
A short uphill walk from the Fantoft light rail stop. Moved here from Fortun in 1883, burned by an arsonist in 1992, and rebuilt plank by plank.
Troldhaugen: Edvard Grieg Museum
Troldhaugvegen 65, twenty minutes on foot from the Hop stop. The villa, the composing hut over the water, and Troldsalen. Closed Mondays.
Evening
Nordnes headland walk
Out past the aquarium to the point where Byfjorden opens up. Locals swim off the rocks here on light evenings; the water does not care that it is June.
Dinner at JEST
Vagsallmenningen 6. The Colonialen bar and dining room, with tables outside on the square when the weather allows. Book ahead.
Morning
Bergensbanen to Myrdal
Vy runs the Bergen Railway from Bergen Station; the train to Myrdal takes about two hours, up through Voss and into the snow line at 866 m.
Bistro car somewhere past Voss
The Bergen Railway carries a bistro car. Coffee and a baguette while the valley narrows is the correct way to do the climb.
Afternoon / Day
Flam Railway down to Flam
Myrdal to Flam is 20 km in about 50 minutes, one of the steepest standard-gauge lines anywhere. It runs year round, with the most departures in high summer.
Check in: Fretheim Hotel
A white timber hotel two minutes from the Flam Railway terminus, at the head of the Aurlandsfjord. Ask for a room facing the water.
Flam Railway Museum
In the old station building beside the platform. It shows how the line's twenty tunnels were blasted and dug out largely by hand.
Shuttle bus up to Stegastein
The bus climbs Bjorgavegen out of Aurland in a stack of hairpins. Buy the return at the Flam tourist office; the last one down is early.
Stegastein viewpoint
On County Road 243 above Aurlandsvangen. A 30-metre plank of steel and laminated pine runs out over the Aurlandsfjord and stops at a glass lip.
Evening
Dinner at Aegir BryggeriPub
On the Flamsbrygga quay. The pub is built as a stave church inside, all dark timber and a central fire; the tasting board runs their own beers.
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Morning
Breakfast at the Fretheim
Included, and served early enough for the first boat. The fjord is glass until the day trippers arrive off the 10:00 train.
Fjord cruise to Gudvangen
From the Flam pier down the Aurlandsfjord and into the UNESCO-listed Naeroyfjord. About two hours, on near-silent electric vessels. Sit outside.
Afternoon / Day
Njardarheimr Viking Valley
A few minutes from the Gudvangen pier. A working reconstructed Viking village, staffed in role. Open daily 10:00 to 18:00, April to October.
Bus back to Flam
The Gudvangen bus runs the E16 tunnels back to Flam in about half an hour. It is the same fjord, seen from underneath the mountain.
Late lunch at Aegir
Back on the Flamsbrygga quay. A bowl of stew and a dark beer after five hours on the water is the whole point of the brewery being there.
Evening
Climb to Brekkefossen
A steep half-hour from the valley road behind the village to a waterfall ledge above Flam. Boots, not trainers; the last section is wet rock.
Dinner at the Fretheim Hotel
The hotel dining room does a set Norwegian menu built on local lamb and fjord fish. Book your table at check-in; it fills with tour groups.
Morning
Breakfast at the Fretheim
Eat properly; the next fixed meal is on a ship tonight. Fill a flask for the two changes of train ahead.
Flam Railway up to Myrdal
The climb back: 20 km and roughly 860 vertical metres in under an hour. The train pauses at Kjosfossen, where the waterfall does the talking.
Bergensbanen back to Bergen
The train to Bergen drops down the Raundalen valley through Voss in about two hours. Left-hand seats for the river.
Afternoon / Day
Lunch at Fetevaren
Strandgaten 18. The Colonialen delicatessen: Nordic cheese, cured meat, bread baked that morning. Buy a second bag for the cabin tonight.
KODE: Rasmus Meyer
Rasmus Meyers alle 7, on the city lake. One merchant collection, given to the city, and its Munch rooms are the strongest outside Oslo.
Evening
Board the coastal ship
The Bergen to Kirkenes coastal ship sails from the Hurtigruten terminal at Nostet each evening. Book a cabin, not a deck seat, for the overnight leg.
Dinner aboard
Eat as the ship clears Byfjorden and turns north. In mid-June it never properly goes dark, so take coffee out on deck for the islands.
Morning
Dock at Alesund
The ship comes alongside at Skansekaia mid-morning after a night through the Stad seas. The Art Nouveau centre is ten minutes on foot from the quay.
Jugendstilsenteret
Apotekergata 16, in the old Swan Pharmacy. Alesund burned down in 1904 and was rebuilt in three years; this building kept its interiors intact.
Afternoon / Day
Check in: Hotel Brosundet
Apotekergata 5, a converted quayside warehouse on the Brosundet canal. Room 47 is out in the Molja lighthouse at the harbour mouth.
Lunch at Apotekergata No. 5
Downstairs in the hotel. The coffee bar and delicatessen open at nine and run to five; the restaurant proper is dinner only, Monday to Saturday.
418 steps up Aksla
The stairway starts in the town park behind the centre. From Fjellstua at the top the whole rebuilt grid lies out below with the Sunnmore Alps behind.
Atlanterhavsparken
Tueneset, 3.6 km west at the end of the headland. A diver hand-feeds the big Atlantic tank, and the seals are outdoors in real surf.
Evening
Dinner at XL Diner
Skaregata 1B, over the water. Open since 1999 and built around bacalao made from line-caught Lofoten cod. Closed Sundays; kitchen stops at ten.
Morning
Breakfast at Brosundet
Eat early. The bus south leaves from the Alesund terminal and there is nothing worth stopping for between here and the fjord.
Bus south to Hellesylt
Fram runs the bus south from Alesund bus terminal, crossing the Storfjord by car ferry on the way. Check the day's departures and allow most of the morning.
Afternoon / Day
Hellesylt to Geiranger ferry
About an hour up the UNESCO-listed Geirangerfjord past the Seven Sisters and the Suitor. The crossing is seasonal, so check the current timetable.
Check in: Hotel Union Geiranger
Geirangervegen 101. Taking guests since 1891 and now in its fourth generation of the same family, above the village, with pools and a spa that look down the fjord.
Late lunch at Cafe Losta
In the Hotel Union. Soup and open sandwiches, and a terrace pointed down the water. The kitchen is quiet once the cruise-ship crowd has gone.
Norwegian Fjord Centre
Norsk Fjordsenter, above the village. The World Heritage visitor centre explains how families farmed the ledges you can see across the fjord.
Evening
Flydalsjuvet at last light
The classic overlook, a short climb up the Grotli road out of the village. In mid-June the light is still holding well past eleven.
Dinner at Restaurant Fjorden
The Hotel Union dining room. Sunnmore lamb and fjord fish; ask for a window if you want the Seven Sisters with the main course.
Fjord to Vigra
Morning
Breakfast at the Union
Geirangervegen 101. Get outside with the coffee first: the fjord is at its stillest before the first cruise ship comes up the water.
Geirangerfjord sightseeing boat
From the village pier. The short trip is about 75 minutes, out under the Seven Sisters and below the abandoned Skageflaa farm ledge.
Afternoon / Day
Express bus back to Alesund
Fram runs a summer bus from Geiranger back to Alesund, ferry crossing included. Departures are few, so check the timetable and book the seat.
Sunnmore Museum
Museumsvegen 12, at Borgundgavlen on the way into town. Fifty-odd relocated timber buildings and a shed full of open Sunnmore boats.
Evening
Airport bus to Vigra
The flybussen leaves from the Alesund terminal and runs out through the undersea tunnels to the island airport. Give it a comfortable hour.
Fly out of Alesund (AES)
Alesund Airport Vigra is the regional hub for Sunnmore, with frequent connections to Oslo and other Norwegian cities. One terminal, so security is quick.
